Travel: Plettenberg Bay on a shoestring

Making the trek in my dad’s VIP Valiant to Plettenberg Bay from Cape Town was an annual event for about five years of my childhood. Even then, I loved a road trip; especially when they were accompanied by a number of boiled eggs and Marmite sarmies. 

My dad’s brother, a former adman turned marketing executive had decided to give up the rat race and buy a motel called Strombolis, 5km outside Plett. As a chartered accountant, he was my uncle’s unofficial financial adviser, and while they spent many hours discussing business stuff in the pub, us kids played red rover on the lawn; or kissing catches if my cousin’s girlfriends were around.

Though Plett is a flourishing centre today, it was not on the colonial government’s economic radar until the late 1700s. Due, primarily, to its lack of access — thick indigenous forests stretched from the mountains to the coast — the established route east was the Attaquas Kloof “road” (A friend of mine and 4X4 trailblazer Nico Hestermann calls it “the ‘N1’ for ox wagons travelling north and east”) and was used by thousands of ox wagons from 1689 to 1869. First struck by elephants, the route was perpetuated by the Attaqua Khoi and then followed by early Dutch explorers, such as Ensign Schrijver. This inaccessibility meant that Plettenberg Bay’s potential as a timber export port was only properly realised after Robert Gordon’s visit there in 1778.

He wrote of the Keurbooms River: “It would be possible to let wood float down the river and to load in the bay”. Yet even though timber warehouses were built in 1788, the bay proved a difficult roadstead and the harbour never flourished as it was hoped to.

Perhaps it was just as well. The indigenous forests survived another century until they could be protected from further bouts of short-sightedness when the Woodcutters’ Annuities bill was passed in March 1939, which prohibited woodcutters from felling any indigenous trees and compensated them with a £25 per annum pension.

Swedish botanist Carl Thunberg, the first university graduate to study SA’s flora in situ, spent six days in Plett about six years before Gordon. He arrived there in November 1772 and gained access to the bay via the same circuitous route as Gordon: from Avontuur in the Langkloof and then down the nascent Prince Alfred’s Pass route.

Inbetween observing and picking flora specimens (in all, he collected 3,100 Cape species); he was fascinated by the “Robbeberg” peninsula, its seal population and its layered geological makeup (he had not seen Enon conglomerate before). He also enjoyed observing the habits and antics of a large group of “Hottentots” (Khoi) who were the indentured labourers of a local farmer. Thunberg was particularly fascinated with how they did not fully cook their buffalo meat (the farmer would give them shot to shoot buffalo, thereby protecting his cattle stock, but there would be hell to pay if there were fewer buffaloes killed than balls used) merely smoking strips of meat or braising them in the coals before eating it.

Another botanist, and naturalist, William Burchell, arguably the greatest of all of those who visited SA in the 18th and 19th centuries, left Avontuur in late 1814 for Mossel Bay. On the course of this relatively short stretch (only 3% of his total Southern African travels of 7,242km) Burchell collected about 40% of all his 60,000 plus natural specimens, most of them botanical — little wonder it is known as the Garden Route.      

I got my first taste of this beautiful region in the summer of ’69. My initial view of Plett was from a vantage point off the national road, not far from the old Formosa Inn. Like early Portuguese explorer, Rafael Perestrello, who named it Bahia Formosa (beautiful bay) in 1576, I was immediately taken with the exquisite sweep of wave-fringed beaches stretching from Robberg in the south to the mist-shrouded peaks of the Tsitsikamma in the north.

I’m reminded of this as I stand next to my wife, Annette, and we admire the same view from the modern-day Signal Hill viewpoint. It’s simple outdoor activities like this we intend to fill our time with here, not only due to a very restricted budget, but also because our bodies are recovering from a merciless bout of resurgent Covid-19 and are in self-imposed “isolation”.

With a wonderful room garnered at the Beacon Island Hotel, courtesy of some soon expiring family timeshare points, we’re also quite happy to spend most of our time reading in our view-spoilt and ozone-infused room. Over the next few days we get into a routine of morning beach walks, midmorning cereal breakfasts; late lunches from our bar fridge stocks and then ordering room-service dinners, often taken al fresco on the balcony.

We break our self-imposed exile occasionally by taking a picnic drive to Nature’s Valley; a visit to the shops to stock up on snacks for the room and even manage a short kayak paddle up the Keurbooms River as the effects of the enervating illness start to leave our bodies.

Otherwise, happily confined to our hotel room, we work our way through the pile of books we’ve brought along, building up a slow head of steam for the other budget outdoor activities we’ve earmarked. These include a shorter version of the full Robberg Hiking Trail we’ve done previously; a visit to some of the artsy and shoo-wah shops found at Old Nick’s (the crystal shop is a must-visit for geology bores like me); a walk up the unique stretch of beach at Keurboomstrand, with its bevy of coves and unusual rock formations, and lunch at the Plett Ski-Boat Club, arguably the best fish and chips venue in town.

On one of our outings to the grocery store, I stop-in for a budget haircut. This traditional barber shop is staffed by true-to-their-craft pros from Egypt. I’m allocated to Abdul, a master with his tools, and just when I think he’s finished, he brandishes a cut-throat and starts trimming my beard, neck and sideburns. It’s the best R150 I’ve spent in a long time.

When we get back to the hotel my old mother’s carer calls in a bit of a panic. My mom has been admitted to hospital with an infection and she thinks it would be best if we came home. We’re only four days into our allotted seven-day timeshare and there’s still so much budget outdoor stuff we want to do, but the decision to go home is a no-brainer.

I console myself with a complimentary steam bath downstairs, ticking off another of my planned “free activities”. With a very naked man with a roving eye the only other punter in the steam room, I decide to keep my shorts on and sit as far away from him as possible. Despite this he propositions me; and when I say in my most macho voice, “Thanks pal, but I’m happily hetero,” he persists by saying, “What happens in Vegas, stays in Vegas”.

Personally I blame Abdul for giving me such a spiffy haircut, but it allows Annette and me to laugh most of the way home.    

Travel Adviser

Why should I go there: Plett is arguably the jewel in the Garden Route’s crown with tourist accommodation and activities to match. And its equitable climate and moderate summer temperatures make it the perfect spot to spend time outdoors.

While there are many world-class tourist activities to be enjoyed here, as well as an increasing number of good wineries and restaurants to visit in the area, for those counting their pennies like me, consider the following budget-friendly activities:

Beach walking, swimming and hiking: With three gently sloping and reasonably firm sand beaches, plus nearby Keurboomstrand, you’re spoilt for choice. The Robberg Nature Reserve and nearby Kranshoek Hiking Trail offer walks of varying lengths and difficulties.

Canoeing: Launch your own or hire one at reasonable rates at the Keurbooms River Nature Reserve and paddle as far upstream as you like. Fishing and river swimming is allowed and birders may even catch sight of the rare Narina trogon or other species from the 177 recorded here. When you come back, enjoy a braai or a picnic and relax in nature.

Drives: One of my favourite day drives is the round trip to Spitskop. It’s accessed by driving out on the R340 past Wittedrif, then, after turning left at the R339 — you’ll find Spitskop about 10km on. You’ll need a high clearance vehicle to get to the top and in wet weather it’s advisable to go in a 4x4. Once you’ve enjoyed the stunning view, head towards Knysna and make for the Kom-se-Pad (7km). After 19km of forested Nirvana, turn right and drive past Simola into Knysna — head back to Plett on the N2. Allow three hours for a leisurely drive.

Eating: The cheapest is, of course, to self-cater; but if you can afford one or two restaurant outings, try Enrico’s in Keurboomstrand or the Ski-boat Club on Central Beach.

Where to stay: There are a number of good campgrounds in Plett (The Forever Resort is my favourite). Out of season specials on accommodation portals such as lekkeslaap.co.za or booking.com also offer a few rooms for under R500 per night (two adults).

What to take with you: A Guide to the Garden Route (Jacana), a must-have; bird books; reading books; Slingsby’s Garden Route map; hiking shoes; sun hat and binoculars.