Pity the country’s successful wine producers: the better their reputation and the more extensive their sales, the harder it is for them to get spoken about (and "spoken about" includes everything from editorial to social media). The rush of the new has entirely displaced the gravitas of long-established credibility. This rule applies most particularly when reputation is paired with distribution, but it is substantially diluted the moment perceived rarity enters the equation. If it’s believed that you don’t have any wine for sale, being well known is not an impediment. In fact, it may be an advantage. This rule means that, no matter what award a big producer wins, no one really writes or tweets about it. The Winery of the Year, as determined by the panel selecting the 2017 Platter Guide five-star laureates, was Nederburg, an extraordinary achievement and one that places it alongside some of the most successful and sought-after small-scale producers.The news hardly generated  a ripple...

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