The term "mainstream" comes with a great deal of baggage. For a start, there’s an implication that everything that isn’t "mainstream" is marginal — unless, of course, you put individualism ahead of convention, in which case you excoriate those seduced by the big brand sound. If you’re anti-Establishment, you’re attracted to the fringe, seeking hard-to-find rather than in-your-face. If, however, you are invested in what lies along the highways rather than the byways, you’re inclined to believe that the opposite of mainstream is simply nerdy. It’s nearly impossible to find common ground between these two positions in the world of wine: if you fancy yourself a wine geek, you dare not mention that you drank — let alone enjoyed – a bottle of Nederburg or even Diemersdal. You’re not supposed to mention anything produced outside the Swartland and in volumes exceeding the contents of a 228l barrel. It would be tantamount to a whisky buff confessing to a penchant for bourbon or the occasiona...

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