Sometimes it’s not easy to measure progress. On a long walk there are milestones to help keep account of distance. If, as the metaphor suggests, you’re eating an elephant bite by bite, presumably you can tell how much is left from how many mouthfuls lie ahead. But what to do when what you are trying to assess is intangible and subjective? It’s a bit like watching your children growing up or your parents growing old: for a long time nothing dramatic is evident and then, very suddenly, children have become adults and mothers and fathers have succumbed to age. We talk constantly about how the Cape wines have improved, but we live in the midst of that upward trajectory. Comparisons of what was produced a few years back can never really convey the sense of distance traversed because the older wines have themselves evolved, so have our palates and expectations. Happily, a few events in the past two weeks have served up an epiphany, less of a where-we-were kind of measure as a where-we’re-...

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