To say that SA has produced some of the greatest fortified wines in the world is not a superlative of the order of “the prettiest girl in Istanbul” (to borrow Taki’s immortal and politically incorrect metaphor).

The competition is stiff: there are great ports and sherries, madeiras and malagas, marsalas and muscats. It may be a much diminished market worldwide, but the survivors — those who are making wines for their grandchildren’s grandchildren — are intensely competitive and they are clearly not doing it solely for nostalgia...

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