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The Caraffa restaurant in Alphen Park, Pretoria, is unassuming-looking from the outside. The entrance is not very prominently marked, so I first went into the place downstairs. They set me right, and I ascended the steps.

It is a pleasant, slightly old-fashioned, intimate setting, but it has unpleasantly hard chairs. Don’t come here if you are suffering from haemorrhoids...

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