You don’t need first-hand knowledge of the patriotic spirit of the French or the Italians to guess that the imported wine market in Italy and France is minuscule. Pride as well as unashamed ignorance of what might be available makes a booming market in foreign wine seriously unlikely.

High-end Parisian restaurants list a few international wines — to cater, one imagines, for Americans unfamiliar with French treasures. Mostly when fine dining establishments in Bordeaux talk about “foreign wine” they mean burgundy, while those in Burgundy mean bordeaux...

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