As the wind whips across the Serengeti, the sides of my tent billow in and out like a wheezing old man. The whole frame is creaking and groaning, and metal zip-ends are jangling. A hyena yelps somewhere close by and I grin, enjoying the wild sounds of Africa from my comfortable double bed in the bush. I’ve finally developed an affinity for camping, as long as it’s in luxurious style like Tanzania’s new Ehlane Plains Camp, which manages the clever trick of luxurious unobtrusiveness. Its eight tented bedrooms are delightful, with shiny wooden floors, big beds, a lounge area, a box shower like a Swedish sauna in the generous bathroom and a private deck looking out on endless bush. Despite the comfort, the entire camp is remarkably minimalistic, with the bedrooms, a kitchen and the communal dining room, lounge and bar tent all springing up in four weeks flat. It feels far more earth-friendly than the usual game lodges built with deep foundations, bricks and concrete. Ehlane is a permane...

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