MICHAEL FRIDJHON: Hipster wine lovers should think twice before turning their beards up at estate wines
At Tokara, nothing is left to chance and no expense has been spared in pursuit of vinous perfection
It’s easy for hipster winemakers and their followers to dismiss high-end estate wine. Petrol heads feel the same way about the latest-model Aston Martins, reflecting — with a traditionalist’s nostalgia — on the somewhat romanticised era of the great British motor industry, when the marque was rescued by David Brown and Ian Fleming gifted James Bond a seriously modified DB5 to go with his Bollinger.
No doubt they hanker after the smell of the Connolly leather interior, and the unmistakable whiff of fuel and oil that was part of the cockpit ambience. They probably don’t remember that less iconic cars were measurably faster, and they don’t want to know that most other vehicles were significantly more reliable.