The two terms most frequently associated with pinot noir are “heartbreak grape” and “holy grail”. Clearly, producing a great pinot noir is as elusive as finding the long-lost chalice. I’m not sure why this should be the case. All you require is a site such as one of the great appellations of Burgundy’s Cote d’Or. Once you’ve ticked that box you still need to be sure of appropriate enough weather conditions. Finally, with the first two items sorted, the final requirement is easy: winemaking competence of the kind widely available in the modern world — and not only in Burgundy.

Pinot noir only becomes tricky when you stray from suitable soils and from the climatic environment in which it performs best. This of course is exactly what those who call it “the heartbreak grape” have been doing...

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