Most deluxe wines destined for high-profile sales, whether on auction or in prestige market places such as the Place de Bordeaux, are spared the image risk of a blind tasting assessment. For a few years a small group of the best-known international wine writers persuaded the Bordeaux trade to let them sample the annual “primeur” releases with labels out of sight. The critics clearly felt confident that their reputations would remain intact if they were less than complimentary about a wine from some famous chateau.  

It turns out that the proprietors were less certain about their wines, or more concerned with the fragility of the estate’s image — and very anxious about the financial impact of a less-than-flattering score. The “privilege” of tasting the wines unsighted was withdrawn after a few years, leaving the critics with the infinitely more difficult task of trying to separate the wine in the glass from the brand value of the label in front of them...

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