In my mid-teens when I used to (illegally) sneak out from boarding school to (illegally) visit a nearby pub, the food choices were limited. There were chips or peanuts, and that was it.

As I excitedly pored over British Michelin-starred chef Tom Kerridge’s new cookbook — Pub Kitchen. The Ultimate Modern British Food Bible — it swiftly became clear how much has changed. Not in every UK pub, but in many of them...

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