The so-called new wave of Cape wine is a lot less like Hokusai’s iconic image and much more like a series of ripples across a wind-swept lake. For a start, it’s not a single movement driven by a common intellectual force or aesthetic vision.

Nor are its exponents united in terms of age and experience. Some have been in the wine industry for many years, during which time they have assembled a following which permits them to alter course. Others have just set out on their own and are trying to carve out a niche, the boundaries of which — for the time being — are not clear...

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