The world of wine is no more equal than Manhattan, Paris, Mumbai or Johannesburg. Some grapes set out with lesser prospects than others: they can grow in the same environment, enjoying the benefits of the same terroir, land up in the same cellar — even age in the same barrels — and never stand a chance of a 100-point score.

Consumer prejudice plays a role: if someone offered you a rosé claiming it had a Robert Parker 100-point score you would be dubious — like when your 10-year-old comes back from school and tells you that one of the boys in his class has been given a Ferrari in which to learn to drive on the family farm...

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