MICHAEL FRIDJHON: Grape varieties cannot change their spots
Producers wanting greater complexity have to apply interventionist techniques to add dimension and palate weight
The world of wine is no more equal than Manhattan, Paris, Mumbai or Johannesburg. Some grapes set out with lesser prospects than others: they can grow in the same environment, enjoying the benefits of the same terroir, land up in the same cellar — even age in the same barrels — and never stand a chance of a 100-point score.
Consumer prejudice plays a role: if someone offered you a rosé claiming it had a Robert Parker 100-point score you would be dubious — like when your 10-year-old comes back from school and tells you that one of the boys in his class has been given a Ferrari in which to learn to drive on the family farm...
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