Cambodian workers fall ill as Walmart and Adidas waste fuels kilns, report shows

Waste from at least 19 international brands including Adidas and Walmart is being used to fuel kilns in brick factories in Cambodia, and some workers are falling ill, according to a report by a local rights group released on Monday.

The report by The Cambodian League for the Promotion and Defence of Human Rights, commonly known by its French acronym LICADHO, is based on visits to 21 brick factories in the Cambodian capital Phnom Penh and neighbouring Kandal province between April and September, as well as interviews with current and former workers.

It found preconsumer garment waste including fabric, plastic, rubber and other materials from the brands is being burnt at seven factories. The factories are burning garment waste to save on fuel costs, it said.

“Several workers reported that burning garment waste caused them headaches and respiratory problems; another worker reported that it made her feel especially unwell during her pregnancies,” the report said.

Several brands, including Primark and Lidl, said they are investigating the matter.

Burning garment waste can release substances toxic to humans if combustion conditions aren’t carefully managed, and the ashes can contain high levels of pollutants, according to an internal 2020 study by the UN Development Programme (UNDP) that measured emissions from garment factory incinerators in Cambodia that burn garment waste, and which was seen by Reuters.

The report reads these toxic substances include dioxins, which can cause cancer.

The UNDP declined to comment on the report.

Regular migraines

A separate report from 2018 by UK academics at Royal Holloway, University of London, reads clothing scraps often contain toxic chemicals including chlorine bleach, formaldehyde and ammonia, as well as heavy metals, PVC, and resins used in the dyeing and printing processes.

Brick factory workers reported regular migraines, nosebleeds and other illnesses, the UK report reads.

The brands named in the LICADHO report are: Adidas, C&A, LPP’s Cropp and Sinsay, Disney, Gap, Old Navy, Athleta, Karbon, Kiabi, Lululemon Athletica, Lidl Stiftung & Co’s Lupilu, Walmart’s No Boundaries, Primark, Reebok, Sweaty Betty, Tilley Endurables, Under Armour, and Venus Fashion.

Adidas, which sources from 16 factories in Cambodia, said it has initiated an investigation to see if waste is being diverted from the authorised disposal routes to the brick kilns.

Adidas environmental policies in Cambodia state that all waste materials from apparel suppliers must be disposed of, either to an approved waste-to-energy plant that is fully regulated and has air quality controls, or to government-licensed recycling centres, the company said.

Lidl said it takes the conditions reported by LICADHO seriously and that it has started investigations, but could not provide any further information.

LPP said it is unaware its textile waste is being burnt in brick kilns, and has contacted its agents responsible for placing orders in Cambodia. LPP said it plans an awareness day in early 2024 for its agents and factories in Cambodia with a particular focus on waste management.

Passed audits

Primark, which sources from 20 factories in Cambodia, said it is investigating the issue. Sweaty Betty did not comment on the specific findings, but said it works closely with suppliers to ensure full compliance with its environmental code of conduct.

Tilley Endurables said it is “very concerned” with the findings and only works with factories that have passed audits.

Tilley said the factory that produced its items was audited by World Responsible Accredited Production (WRAP), and had committed to ensuring proper waste management based on local laws and internationally recognised standards. Tilley said it further investigated and found the factory uses a Cambodian ministry of environment-licensed waste removal company and does not have visibility into what happens to the waste once it is collected.

The other brands did not immediately reply to Reuters’ requests for comment. The WRAP, the Cambodian ministry of environment, and waste collection company Sarom Trading, did not respond to requests for comment. 

Reuters