LIQUID INVESTMENTS
MICHAEL FRIDJHON: Merlot workshop places maligned cultivar centre stage
For the past several years merlot has taken a hammering from wine writers, yet it remains the most popular variety among SA’s red wine consumers.
Most critics focus their attention on wines selling in the rarefied atmosphere of R150 or more per bottle, while more than half of all red wine in SA is on shelves for less than R50.
Part of merlot’s appeal to people who are everyday wine drinkers is the idea of it: soft-tannined, easy drinking and accessible. Unlike cabernet, which is understood to be a cultivar that needs to evolve in the bottle, merlot is expected to deliver bucket-loads of fruit the moment the cork is drawn. Since people tend to taste what they are expecting — at least when it comes to wine — the sales of merlot flourish at least in part because the punters believe it’s juicy and consumer friendly. The serious merlot producers have been battling with the cultivar’s negative press. Its critics point out that many of the more premium examples are either unpleasantly green or overripe and porty.Wine makers hoping to steer a course between the two positions tend to produce wines that reflect the compromises they must make: super-ripe berry notes underpinned by chewy herbal textures. Leading producers regularly host workshops to see how best they can manage its idiosyncrasies in the South African...
Would you like to comment on this article?
Sign up (it's quick and free) or sign in now.
Please read our Comment Policy before commenting.
Subscribe now to unlock this article.
Support BusinessLIVE’s award-winning journalism for R129 per month (digital access only).
There’s never been a more important time to support independent journalism in SA. Our subscription packages now offer an ad-free experience for readers.
Cancel anytime.
Questions? Email helpdesk@businesslive.co.za or call 0860 52 52 00. Got a subscription voucher? Redeem it now.