“Imagine this whole area without the trees and a white stucco floor beneath your feet,” our guide says as he waves his arms towards the jungle.  

Picture thousands of people crammed into this plaza one early morning, looking up expectantly at the huge stone pyramid in front of us. As the sun begins to rise their god-king dramatically appears from an alcove at its pinnacle. He’s a fearsome figure dressed in jaguar skins and cascading quetzal feathers, and his people bow in awe as he addresses them...

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