Some places — perhaps most places — slide past you as soon as you leave them; the impressions they leave are slippery and fading. Others are more stubborn; they get stuck; they become part of you and insist you return, again and again. Pafuri is like that for me. An about 240km² triangle wedged up against Zimbabwe and Mozambique, it forms a mere 1% of Kruger National Park and yet features a whopping 75% of its biodiversity. While lions are scarce and rhino non-existent, Pafuri is still a bush-lover’s paradise. It has an astonishingly diverse array of landscapes — from lala palm-studded plains to dense mopane-covered hillside — and is home to about 350 bird species, including the rare Pel’s fishing owl. This fluffy recluse has given its name to Pafuri’s newest and most exclusive lodge: Pel’s Post, which consists of four effortlessly stylish rooms perched discreetly on a ridge. When it comes to safaris, this is the very epitome of a room with a view: with the press of a button, floor-...

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