Climbing up the stairs from the Stephansplatz underground station is best done slowly. End with a ceremonial pause for breath to prepare for one of the most beautiful cities in the world. With its stunning architecture, Vienna is ostentatious, outdoing Madrid, Rome and Paris with its audacious opulence. St Stephen’s Cathedral in the centre is relatively restrained in the architectural stakes. Its roof tiles form colourful mosaics depicting a double-headed eagle and the city’s coat of arms, but for real over-the-topness, keep walking. Your eyes will be drawn down a wide street or narrow lane to investigate an interesting building before they spot something even more magnificent further on. Even the ice creams in Vienna are decadent, with the queue snaking out of Zanoni & Zanoni’s parlour at least giving customers time to decide which flavours to try. There is a magnificent cluster of buildings where each outshines the last, with the massive Hofburg Imperial Palace at centre. The last...

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