There’s nothing slight about Yogi de Beer’s amphoras. Each giant stoneware vessel requires 250kg of clay, takes weeks to shape and is fired in a kiln the size of a small garage. They are in big demand from wine makers. De Beer crafts his vessels by hand in his pottery studio in Hout Bay, Cape Town, aptly situated in an old winery. His stoneware can breathe, allowing for the micro-oxygenation that barrels impart, but without any flavour seeping into the wine. They’re not "classic Grecian or Roman-style amphorae with the pointy bottoms", he says. "Just my take on them: a large bottle essentially. And it’s important to me to make a decent-looking pot." Justin van Wyk of Constantia Glen, a recent convert to maturing wine in neutral stoneware, says the vessels are big. The Bordeaux-style winery’s 2017 Constantia Glen Two blend includes a 5% "dash" of Sémillon aged in a 600l amphora. Although the small quantity of clay-matured wine is not really discernible in the 68% Savignon Blanc, 32% ...

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