London — Every week, workers in a warehouse near the Sardinian port of Cagliari pile two pallets with local specialties such as fresh artichokes, fiore sardo cheese, and bottarga fish eggs. The pallets are loaded onto a truck for a journey across Italy, France, and the English Channel before arriving five days later at Olivo, a Sardinian restaurant in London where chefs turn the food into $30-a-plate delectables such as spaghetti with sea urchin or Sebada, a pecorino cheese fritter covered in honey.

With the coronavirus pandemic, Olivo and its sister restaurants in the posh area near Westminster have cut the weekly order from four pallets to two. Now, Britain’s departure from the EU threatens to make the journey more cumbersome, expensive, and slower — if it’s even possible...

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