I find myself in an underground vault in Johannesburg on a Friday night, fairy lights glistening around me and a sharp curiosity in the air. Tables are set up in a series of rooms that flow one into the other, each revealing another hole in a mysterious labyrinth.

I make my way to a moody bar. About 20 other people — some local, some foreign — gather around the room with checkered floors and vintage green tiled walls, our excitement palpable. We have each come from our little corners of the world for an underground migrant cuisine storytelling dinner hosted by JoburgPlaces...

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