Wander through the Greek capital with chef Jose Andres
27 March 2024 - 05:00
byChris Taylor
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Chef Jose Andres shops at the Athens Central Market in Athens, Greece. Picture: REUTERS/ THOMAS SCHAUER
Athens — On any given day, it is hard to say where you might find chef Jose Andres.
It might be at one of his signature restaurants, or it might be somewhere for his nonprofit World Central Kitchen, which feeds people in trouble spots around the world.
But here is one place you might have a good chance of locating him: Athens. In fact, Andres loves the region so much that his latest book, Zaytinya, is all about the flavours of Greece, Turkey and Lebanon.
For the Reuters’ 48 Hours series, Andres takes us through a couple of mouthwatering days in the Greek capital.
What I love the most
I am humbled by the centuries of history that surround you when you come to Athens. Some of the stones you might be standing on have been there for thousands of years. But when you walk the streets, you feel this city is so alive, so creative. Athens is one of the most exciting culinary cities right now.
Where to go after landing
Birdman (Voulis Street) is a very small place from a talented young chef, Ari Vezene. He was inspired by the bars of Tokyo, where he spent time. You find a seat at the bar, there are no tables, and try the little skewers from the Japanese robata grills.
Where to stay
I’m usually in Athens only for a few days at a time, and Hotel Grande Bretagne (Vasileos Georgiou A Street) is perfectly located in the centre of everything. It has an old-world elegance with fantastic views. Try to get a room with a balcony and a view of the Acropolis.
The Electra Palace (Navarchou Nikodimou Street) is also quite beautiful. My friend, chef Costas Spiliadis, recently opened his new hotel, xenodocheio Milos (Kolokotroni Street) I can’t wait to stay there on my next visit.
Best place for team meetings
I recently went for lunch at Ergon House (Mitropoleos Street) with some of my team. There are larger rooms for meetings, but we spent most of our time exploring the Agora market on the main floor, loading up on unique Greek food products to bring home for our families.
A for Athens (Miaouli Street), a little rooftop bar and cafe set off of Monastiraki Square, has some communal bar tables to gather around and take in the amazing view of the city.
Power breakfast spot
As my good friend, Aglaia Kremezi, one of Greece’s most celebrated food writers, told me: Many Greeks, particularly Athenians, are not really into long breakfast meals. They usually prefer a coffee and maybe a pastry.
You’ll find lots of people at Da Capo (Tsakalof Street) in the Kolonaki neighbourhood stopping in for coffee and gathering outside at the tables that line the street.
Tourist trap that’s worth it
The city of Athens is built around the Acropolis. It shapes the way you understand the city.
Make the walk to the top. Do it. You will be astonished by the size and importance of the Parthenon, the Erechtheum, all these ancient buildings that reach back into the past to inspire us today.
Ideal coffee spot
My favourite coffee spot is Mokka (Athinas Street). They have been roasting coffee for generations, and they brew traditional Greek coffee in the small pots called briki that are warmed in hot sand until they bubble and froth.
Favourite area to shop
I will always seek out the food markets of a city when I first visit. You learn so much about a people and place when you understand the foods they cook and share. So it’s no surprise that I like to visit Athens central market, or Varvakios (Athinas Street).
Something only insiders know
It’s not a secret, but don’t miss the opportunity to have lunch at Diporto (Sokratous Street), probably the most famous “koutouki” in downtown Athens — an underground tavern usually lined with wine barrels serving simple, traditional dishes and local wines.
The meal is simple and satisfying: a fresh Greek salad, traditional fassolada, a creamy white bean soup, fried fish and loaf of bread.
Cannot-miss treats
I’m not really one for sweets, but Aglaia Kremezi will take me to get loukoumades, Greece’s famous fried dough puffs doused in honey, at Stani (Marikas Kotopouli Street), a very old spot off Omonia square. Here you’ll find Athenians ordering traditional sheep’s milk yoghurt for breakfast.
For more unique desserts, stop at Sweet Nolan (Apollonos Street) where you can get pastries and breads to go.
Best dinner splurge
On my last visit, we ate the newly opened Pharaoh restaurant (Solomou Street). Dining there is like being invited to the coolest dinner party in town.
Support our award-winning journalism. The Premium package (digital only) is R30 for the first month and thereafter you pay R129 p/m now ad-free for all subscribers.
A delicious trip through Athens
Wander through the Greek capital with chef Jose Andres
Athens — On any given day, it is hard to say where you might find chef Jose Andres.
It might be at one of his signature restaurants, or it might be somewhere for his nonprofit World Central Kitchen, which feeds people in trouble spots around the world.
But here is one place you might have a good chance of locating him: Athens. In fact, Andres loves the region so much that his latest book, Zaytinya, is all about the flavours of Greece, Turkey and Lebanon.
For the Reuters’ 48 Hours series, Andres takes us through a couple of mouthwatering days in the Greek capital.
What I love the most
I am humbled by the centuries of history that surround you when you come to Athens. Some of the stones you might be standing on have been there for thousands of years. But when you walk the streets, you feel this city is so alive, so creative. Athens is one of the most exciting culinary cities right now.
Where to go after landing
Birdman (Voulis Street) is a very small place from a talented young chef, Ari Vezene. He was inspired by the bars of Tokyo, where he spent time. You find a seat at the bar, there are no tables, and try the little skewers from the Japanese robata grills.
Where to stay
I’m usually in Athens only for a few days at a time, and Hotel Grande Bretagne (Vasileos Georgiou A Street) is perfectly located in the centre of everything. It has an old-world elegance with fantastic views. Try to get a room with a balcony and a view of the Acropolis.
The Electra Palace (Navarchou Nikodimou Street) is also quite beautiful. My friend, chef Costas Spiliadis, recently opened his new hotel, xenodocheio Milos (Kolokotroni Street) I can’t wait to stay there on my next visit.
Best place for team meetings
I recently went for lunch at Ergon House (Mitropoleos Street) with some of my team. There are larger rooms for meetings, but we spent most of our time exploring the Agora market on the main floor, loading up on unique Greek food products to bring home for our families.
A for Athens (Miaouli Street), a little rooftop bar and cafe set off of Monastiraki Square, has some communal bar tables to gather around and take in the amazing view of the city.
Power breakfast spot
As my good friend, Aglaia Kremezi, one of Greece’s most celebrated food writers, told me: Many Greeks, particularly Athenians, are not really into long breakfast meals. They usually prefer a coffee and maybe a pastry.
You’ll find lots of people at Da Capo (Tsakalof Street) in the Kolonaki neighbourhood stopping in for coffee and gathering outside at the tables that line the street.
Tourist trap that’s worth it
The city of Athens is built around the Acropolis. It shapes the way you understand the city.
Make the walk to the top. Do it. You will be astonished by the size and importance of the Parthenon, the Erechtheum, all these ancient buildings that reach back into the past to inspire us today.
Ideal coffee spot
My favourite coffee spot is Mokka (Athinas Street). They have been roasting coffee for generations, and they brew traditional Greek coffee in the small pots called briki that are warmed in hot sand until they bubble and froth.
Favourite area to shop
I will always seek out the food markets of a city when I first visit. You learn so much about a people and place when you understand the foods they cook and share. So it’s no surprise that I like to visit Athens central market, or Varvakios (Athinas Street).
Something only insiders know
It’s not a secret, but don’t miss the opportunity to have lunch at Diporto (Sokratous Street), probably the most famous “koutouki” in downtown Athens — an underground tavern usually lined with wine barrels serving simple, traditional dishes and local wines.
The meal is simple and satisfying: a fresh Greek salad, traditional fassolada, a creamy white bean soup, fried fish and loaf of bread.
Cannot-miss treats
I’m not really one for sweets, but Aglaia Kremezi will take me to get loukoumades, Greece’s famous fried dough puffs doused in honey, at Stani (Marikas Kotopouli Street), a very old spot off Omonia square. Here you’ll find Athenians ordering traditional sheep’s milk yoghurt for breakfast.
For more unique desserts, stop at Sweet Nolan (Apollonos Street) where you can get pastries and breads to go.
Best dinner splurge
On my last visit, we ate the newly opened Pharaoh restaurant (Solomou Street). Dining there is like being invited to the coolest dinner party in town.
Reuters
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