The sweep is breathtaking. I’m standing in the gardens of Lord’s Guest Lodge near McGregor, 180km from Cape Town. For kilometres to the right, in the direction of Robertson, lies a quilted patchwork of cultivated farmland, vineyards and sparse scrubland. Pan left and there’s a more mountainous panorama: hills heading towards Greyton and sneaking seawards to Africa’s southernmost tip, Cape Agulhas, 130km distant. The countryside colours and textures bring to mind Van Gogh’s Arle works, or Cezanne’s impressionist Aix-en-Provence masterpieces.

Lord’s is an eclectic gem, stumbled upon by chance when hunger bit after a Father’s Day outing to visit rescued donkeys at their restful sanctuary, Eseltjiesrus, in McGregor. The architecture and décor are Braveheart Scottish — kilts and swords hanging from stone-and-mortar walls — but they serve pizzas proclaimed by seven staunch pizza-loving family members as the best they’ve ever eaten...

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