Over the past decade, a little-known herb 200 times sweeter than sugar has become a $4bn global industry, showing up in everything from Coca-Cola to Heinz tomato sauce. Not a bad start for a product that many people still think has a bitter aftertaste. The stevia plant, which can be processed into a zero-calorie sweetener, has taken off as a sugar alternative. Consumption tripled from 2011 to 2016, according to Euromonitor International. While it’s still a small part of sweetener sales, companies such as Cargill and ED&F Man Holdings are investing more money in it — including to improve the taste. "This is a market that has huge growth potential," says Jonathan Hugh, head of the agri-industrial division at London-based commodity trader ED&F Man, which has a stake in the stevia-based Unavoo Sweetener. "We see a lot of investment opportunities." Finding a low-calorie sugar substitute that doesn’t alter the taste of iconic brands has been a longtime quest in the food industry, especial...

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