HAVE you seen the kif cave near Wilderness, where these sick hippy okes chill?" This is what my two friends and I were asked several times, generally by people who declared themselves "on soul-finding missions", during a recent road trip from Jeffreys Bay to Cape Town.Needless to say, when we got to Wilderness, we pulled over at the spot on the roadside they had described and walked southwards on an abandoned railway track. It took us from a beach and along a rocky cliff face, which dropped directly into the swirling sea.We had been walking for about 10 minutes when we encountered a pair of backpackers walking in the opposite direction. They did not lift their eyes or utter a word as they passed. Their faces were as white as the foam on the waves.The track took us through a cold, dark tunnel, which, as we emerged on the other side, seemed to be a crossing into another world. Blinking in the light, we stood looking out onto the ocean for a moment. Then one of my friends gasped loudly...
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