There is no such thing as glamping on the West Coast

A hostile environment awaited shipwreck survivors on the barren coastline between the Olifants River mouth and Alexander Bay. Luckily for those recorded in the documented shipwrecks along this coastline, such as the Piratiny (1943 — 32km north of Hondeklipbaai) and the Border (1947 — just south of Kleinzee), all made it to nearby settlements safely. It was the same for the crew of the barque SV Manhegan, wrecked at Skuinsbaai Noord (just a few kilometres north of our Varswater campsite in the Namaqua National Park) on September 10 1887. The captain and crew managed to row their lifeboats to the old copper shipping harbour of Hondeklipbaai, 30km distant.

After a 600km drive from Bot River, my mate Pieter and I set about bending our recalcitrant windblown tents to our will. It’s my third visit to the Namaqua National Park, but the first time I’ve attempted it in a flimsy ground tent; and I’m fervently hoping sandwiching it between the bakkie and the boma wall, will prevent me from taking off like an errant Chinese Spy balloon in the southwesterly gales that prevail here.

Having opened in 2008, it’s one of SAN Parks’ more recent developments and with this coastline under constant threat of increased mineral sands and diamond mining, it was secured in the nick of time. It has many repeat visitors, many of whom arrive in sophisticated 4x4 campervans or like those occupying Bamboeskamp 2km north of us, somehow tow large caravans here and book out a campsite for four months at a time.

The coastal section of the park we’re staying in occupies a roughly 50km long stretch of the Succulent Karoo biome, reaching, on average, about 15km east into the interior. It’s a place you come to in order to admire the profusion of wild flowers in spring, succulents and numerous animal and reptile species all year round; take long walks on windswept beaches and read that pile of books that’s been building up next to your bed.

Many environmental activists would surely be keen for SAN Parks to also make a bid for the 60km length of pristine coastline that stretches from Groenriviersmond to Brand-se-Baai, en route to Lutzville. Yes, some farmers, like the Nieuwoudts of Waterval Farm, are trying to ensure that tourists take an environmentally friendly approach when camping on their land, but small diamond concessions and other mining enterprises are already active here; and it’s surely a matter of time before its natural beauty is compromised, or sold out completely.    

Yet, precious metals and minerals have always held sway in the mixed fortunes of “Little Namaqualand”. The Nama people confirmed the legends that abounded about its copper riches to the north when they finally brought ore samples to the Cape’s Dutch settlers in the 1680s. It was this proof that eventually galvanised the ambitious Simon van der Stel to lead his own expedition northwards, one which resulted in finding the fabled “Copper Mountain” in late October 1685. But it wasn’t until the 1850s that copper mining at Springbokfontein (Springbok) started in earnest, with the first loads of ore following a tortuous road to Hondeklipbaai from where it was shipped to Britain.

As we’d hoped, Pieter and I quickly settle into our individual routines of beach walking; rock pool TV (these liquid crystal aquariums can hold one rapt for hours); fishing (which engages Pieter endlessly, though the fish fend him off with alacrity); sea gazing; reading and partaking in a soothing series of life chores, like the daily sea bath; rustling up snacks; stocking up the fridge with beer and preparing the evening meal.

By day three we decide to up the pace a bit and take a drive north. Had it been spring, we might have gone in search of different types of blooming flora within the landlocked northeastern section of the park, but it’s early autumn and we’re content to explore the many kilometres of coast-hugging sand tracks you can follow here (4x4 required).

We’re heading for the Cape fur seal colony, but also hope to see the endemic, wave-surfing Heaviside’s dolphins en route. On the way we pass Koringkorrelbaai, apparently named for the man who donated his wheat kernel-infused lunch to the bay, after his falling into the sea and nearly drowning while crayfishing.

Instead of dolphins, we spot a number of water spouts a way out to sea and assume they belong to the southern right whales that also frequent these waters. We are further rewarded with sightings of suricates, a golden mongoose, a black-backed jackal, steenbok, gemsbok galore and numerous birds of prey.

After being entertained by the playful antics of thousands of seals we escape their lamb-like din and make for the Spoegrivier Caves. It’s a 4km detour I’ve never made before and the bumpy thick sand road proves quite a test for my driving skills. But the view of the river mouth, plus the impressive caves we see on the way in, make it worthwhile.

The caves were an early stopping point for the proto-Nama people, the early Khoi herders who entered SA from the northwest. And with the oldest sheep bones (dated 2,100 years old) ever found in the country discovered here, it’s not only an important heritage site, it will stir the imaginings of anyone vaguely interested in the peopling of SA.

Needing to top the bakkie up with diesel, we leave the caves and head for the old mining town of Koingnaas. The route we choose is part of the Caracal 4x4 Eco trail and takes in a dry, landlocked section of the park, large sections of which glitter with quartz rock deposits.

We stop in at Hondeklipbaai, primarily to replenish Pieter’s fast-diminishing supply of bait, but also to visit the wreck of the Aristea, 5km south of the town. Built in Scotland, this fishing boat turned minesweeper survived the rigours of World War 2 only to be dashed on the rocks when under the command of a drunken captain soon after the war ended.

While we enjoyed the day’s outing, Pieter and I are relieved to get back to our wild and windy campsite. We’re happy to follow our respective somnolent routines: him continuing to try to catch the ones that keep getting away and me to read, perchance to sleep.

But, whatever your interests and reasons for visiting the Namaqua National Park, its splendid isolation and timeless peace will certainly clear your mind of all unwanted clutter.

Travel Advisor

Where it is: The Namaqua National Park’s coastal section is situated in “Little Namaqualand”, a Succulent Karoo biome about 65km southwest of Garies, accessed from Groenriviersmond in the south (the main office is here) or the Hondeklipbaai road in the north. The former route is the shortest from Cape Town (533km) and also affords access to two coastal campsites (Groenriviersmond and Delwerskamp) for 4x2 vehicles.

What it has to offer: Pristine coastline with bountiful marine life and fishing (with permits) in six “controlled” sites, viewing of many mammal, reptile, marine and bird species, hiking, along the beach and through the veld, and also on the 6km Heaviside Hiking Trail, “wild camping” at one of 50 coastal sites (all equipped with “enviro-loos” and boma windbreaks); 4x4 sand driving along beautiful coastal tracks; spring flowers in season, plus an unlimited supply of ozone-filled fresh air and a chance to declutter your mind.    

What you need to take with you: All provisions, including firewood, water, food, drinks, sunscreen, insect repellent, rubbish bags, sun hat, first aid kit, camera, binoculars, books, a toolbox and a puncture repair kit.

What sort of vehicle will get me there: While a 4x2 with tyres deflated (1.6 bars) will comfortably get you to two of the campsites, a proper 4x4 (with low-range and diff-lock) will allow you the widest campsite selection and access to many scenic 4x4 driving routes.  

Best time of year to go: February to April and August to November.

Basic rules to follow: Drive on demarcated tracks only (40km/h max); take out everything you bring in; be considerate of your neighbours; only make fires in designated areas, no pets, no hunting and no wood collecting.

Rates: Camping, conservation fees included, costs two SA adults R294 per day.

Contact: SAN Parks on 012 428 9111 or the Groenriviersmond office on 060 4910738.