It’s the season for wine collectors to start mortgaging their homes, selling off their weekend cars and telling their lovers there’s no dining out at The Test Kitchen for a while. Spring weather has nothing to do with this tightening of belts. The reason that even well-heeled and deeply self-indulgent wine lovers are compelled to cut back on other discretionary spending is the on-allocation release of most of the high-end Cape wines.

Fewer than half a dozen players can seriously sustain the theatre that goes with this sales strategy. First, your wines have to be visibly sought after: this means a track record of great reviews. Second, by their very nature, your wines have to be in short supply: you can’t pretend to be turning away business and meanwhile the much-hyped “gems” are everywhere to be found. Third — and this really is the defining “trick” — your wines have to be unique and bulletproof...

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