I was biting into my fat, wholesome, huge kota when suddenly the image of the low-carbohydrate diet guru Tim Noakes flashed before my eyes. It was a bad time for this to happen. A kota is a township invention: a quarter loaf of bread, the soft inner bit cut out and the crust left open like a bowl into which atchar, chips, egg, sausage and cheese are stuffed. My mouth was wide open, and the kota looked so appetising. But. But there was a humungous amount of potato chips in there. On bread. I hesitated. I thought of Noakes. Then I thought: nothing ventured, nothing gained. I was here for the readers of the Financial Mail, and they want to know what it is like to eat at the most exciting new chicken outlet in SA that I have yet come across.It’s a bit like the Gupta family, you know. They didn’t give President Jacob Zuma’s wet-behind-the-ears kid a quarter of their business for free. They expect a big payback — a coal mine here, political cover there, and perhaps even the opportunity to...

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