“I am praying for the medicane!” said Theodoros. Theodoros works at To Steno, my local place in the town of Yialis on the island of Symi in the Dodecanese. I don’t usually call it To Steno, I call it Theodoros’ place or the Vine Leaf place, because it is all outdoors with a bower of vines that casts a deep, cool green shade during the day and starts to rustle when the wind starts to stir. Theodoros was praying for the medicane – Mediterranean hurricane – because his girlfriend was visiting from Rhodes Island and was due to go back on Sunday afternoon, but if the medicane arrived earlier than expected, the ferry would be cancelled and she’d have to stay. “Medicane” is a terrible name for it. It sounds like the name of John McCain’s healthcare plan, if he’d won the 2008 election instead of Barack Obama. You may think it’s hard to get excited about something called a medicane, but by Sunday afternoon all the boats had been moved from the harbour in Yialis, and people were bringing in t...

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