There are many reasons to fall in love with Kalk Bay, but one small fact trumps all others. It possesses a Ponder Road, which fits rather snugly with the gently ruminative, off-the-grid air of the village. In fact, Ponder Road isn’t a road at all, but a slightly lopsided stairway, neither gun-barrel straight nor windy in that crazy manner of some old Parisian or Roman staircases. With an intact handrail in most places, it leads, one gentle step at a time, from Cape Town’s Boyes Drive down into Kalk Bay proper. You can appreciate all the tended beauty of the place as you walk: the well-kept houses, the pot plants arranged on back steps, the unspoilt lushness of the small, carefully tended gardens. Raise your head slightly and you can take in the view of the sea and the stubby trawlers in the harbour, perhaps turning eyes right to watch the monkey-puzzle trees at the intersection of Boyes Drive and Main Road. There are dog-walkers here and bergies, and early-morning habitués rabbiting...

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