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At sunset the clouds turned pink above the distant, snow-capped Atlas Mountains. The haunting call to prayer drifted on the air from mosques in all directions. The sky darkened and the evening star hung above Koutoubia Mosque, illuminated at night as befits the 12th century landmark of Marrakech towering over the city. We sat sipping date and avocado juice on the roof terrace of Nomad, a chic restaurant in the heart of the medina. Lanterns lit up the darkness and large blanket capes were handed out to ward off the night chill. After a few days in Marrakech we had tagine fatigue; Nomad’s modern Moroccan menu was all the more enticing. We savoured delicate courgette and feta fritters, moving on to mains of calamari zinging with ginger and anchovy. Dessert was one of the finest puddings I have eaten: a saffron-scented date cake with salted caramel sauce, akin to a light, sticky toffee pudding with the distinctive flavour of saffron shining through. After dinner, we meandered back to ou...

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