In Ratatouille, the hilarious animated movie about food, the resident food critic Ego opines: "In many ways, the work of a critic is easy. We risk very little, yet enjoy a position over those who offer up their work and their selves to our judgment ... But there are times when a critic truly risks something, and that is in the discovery and defence of the ‘new’. The world is often unkind to new talent, new creations. The new needs friends."

I chewed on these words as I contemplated a visit to Hombaze, a chain of restaurants that is not new in this country. But to many diners it remains undiscovered, even to those who swear undying love for African cuisine...

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