Restaurants: Where the food critics dine
Stuffy airs and put-on graces have been vanquished and in their place are restaurants where your taste buds get spoilt, writes Sylvia McKeown
In a new series, we ask food writers to tell us about their favourite restaurants. Sylvia McKeown kicks off with Farro in Illovo, Joburg. I hate gels. Small square blobs on a plate masquerading as flavourful brilliance, oft betwixt other rounder blobs of piped emulsions, are my worst. I no longer care for the "idea of a carrot" and do not wish to taste 16 versions of its essence. elBulli, the famed three-star Michelin restaurant in Catalonia, Spain, voted the best restaurant in the world a record five times, was responsible for this trend — called molecular gastronomy. It has been closed for seven years. If the Adrià brothers, who started elBulli, have moved on, then perhaps it’s time that the local fine dining scene does too. Thankfully, a replacement, creeping in on the international food front, is the return (or rise, depending on how you see it) of glorious simplicity and consideration. Stuffy airs and put-on graces have been vanquished and in their place are restaurants where y...
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