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It’s been a rollercoaster of a year for the restaurant industry, with countless lockdowns, travel bans and other Covid-related headaches.

Somehow, amid the chaos, many self-aggrandising awards (I’m convinced some were launched by the recipients’ mothers) have announced their myriad gongs, lists, stars, plates and Noddy badges — despite the fact that there is close to zero chance that their esteemed judges were able to either actually get into the country or sample the fare they’re claiming to be the best...

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