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Kobus van der Merwe operates a modest restaurant in the West Coast touristy fishing village of Paternoster. Wolfgat is a simple spot with a basic kitchen and whitewashed walls, where terrace tables under a bamboo “afdak” overlook the wild Atlantic.

Its unique selling point is offering a diner a taste of the sea, at the coast — an unstuffy place where you’re struck by the single-mindedness of the unusual flavours and textures used...

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