South Africa’s wine industry is facing a huge dilemma: despite its wines being better than ever, a global glut and local tastes for alternatives are resulting in declining volumes. The situation is worsened by clogged-up ports, load-shedding, the threat of increased excise tax and the high cost of living.

“We have to do things differently — there’s no quick fix,” says Rico Basson, CEO of the newly established industry umbrella body SA Wine...

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