IN AN ideal world, price would play no part in wine preferences. You would buy and drink what you liked, without having to engage in a game of mental trade-offs. ("This is a good wine to serve after we’ve returned from Ellis Park and no one is really paying much attention" versus "This is the perfect bottle for a once-in-a-lifetime special occasion.")However, reality doesn’t work like that — and even if it did, tastes are sufficiently different that many of the better wines that are relatively underpriced might still be consumed by those for whom everything in the world might be financially accessible.My "desert island" wines are not the same as yours, just as my desert island books, CDs, DVDs and meals are unlikely to be the same as anyone else’s.Unanimity is impossible — even a significant overlap (once you move beyond close friends and partners) seems improbable.So, following this logic, the record of my latest round of tastings is most meaningful to me, quite useful to those in ...

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