A cocktail is an individual thing, hand made and with a near infinite capacity for variation. It’s a space where creativity shines. That is obvious in Ukraine’s new generation of cocktail bars, which would be standouts in any city.

All have beautiful interiors, an edgy underground vibe and, above all, beautifully crafted cocktails. Before Russia’s invasion this was making the country a destination — the place with the best cocktail bars, the coolest clubs; the brashest and most newly arrived place in Eastern Europe. War hasn’t killed this, but it has made it more treasured by locals...

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