The nice thing about buying so-called fine chocolate is that you can’t really go wrong. It’s all pretty good. But what separates Maison du Chocolat from Teuscher from Recchiuti. Which is the best of the best? For those who have to worry about Valentine’s Day around the corner, otherwise known as Chocolate’s Great Day of Reckoning, we’re here to help.  We’ve enlisted our food editor, Kate Krader, to try some of the best chocolates in the world, so that you don’t have to. (The trials of Krader’s job never end, truly.) Her methodology was simple: Krader tasted elite dark chocolate ganache truffles from companies that can ship across the US; most also ship globally. Crucially, in an effort to make reasoned, head-to-head comparisons, each of the truffles Krader tasted was unadorned— where at all possible, there were no infusions, no nuts, no extra flavours. This is pure chocolate vs chocolate. Krader’s conclusions are based on her own, explicitly biased preferences. “I have a sweet tooth...

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