The late Angeleno food critic Jonathan Gold once resolved to try every restaurant on Pico Boulevard, from downtown pupuseria to beach huts on the Pacific. So numerous were the stops that this intrepid glutton had to abandon the trail, defeated, near the mid-market vendors of Century City.

Whenever it is that life resumes, eating a course through Pico, or any urban tract, promises to be much shorter work than it was in his day. And far less interesting.

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