Up until a few months ago, the stuff that wellness gurus wanted us to eat went under the umbrella of superfoods (nobody could quite define what gave a food entry into the club, though South American provenance seemed to help). Well, nobody cares about those foods any more. Goji berries lie forgotten and lonesome in the fridge, neglected amaranth squats sadly in a dark cupboard.

As soon as it was put out there that our new viral acquaintance goes easy on those with “good immunity” and is much less kind to those with the compromised sort, the new foods to include have been labelled “immune system boosters”. These foods range from ginger and citrus (absolute tops) to almonds and yoghurt...

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