It takes José Andrés three or four tries to appear on screen. Evidently, Washington’s top chef and food philanthropist (he’s distributed millions of meals since the lockdown began) is not as skilled in technology as he is at cooking.

After some good-natured cursing, Andrés’s bearded visage eventually pops up. He is sitting outside a restaurant in Virginia Beach, a town with three military bases nearly 340km south of Washington, where his charity, World Central Kitchen, is delivering food...

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