For years I have wondered whether "real" anchovies tasted significantly different from those in little tins and glass pots: would they be as different as fresh asparagus is from the tinned sort? When I spotted a new-look variety of the little fish in Woolworths the other day, large and white rather than the usual small and dark pink, it seemed my chance — short of a holiday in Portugal — to find out. Then two things happened. When I got home I turned over the packaging and found it was labelled "product of Morocco". The same afternoon I read a major new opinion by the advocate-general of the EU’s court of justice on a dispute referred by the UK courts. The dispute concerns a fishing contract between Morocco and other EU countries, now under scrutiny because the Western Sahara Campaign, a UK lobby group, claims the contract is unlawful. The task of an EU advocate-general is to consider submissions to the court in all matters that raise a new point of law, and then to write an imparti...
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