Food is not just what we put in our mouths. It is not just the smells and the taste. It is much more — it insinuates itself into the deepest crevices of our brains and forms memories; it coalesces into things that jump up at you out of the blue in an unguarded moment one day far out in the future. When I was a small child my father would pack us and my mother into his Wolseley 6/99 on a Sunday afternoon. After taking in a bit of Jo’burg we would pop into Fontana, a rotisserie kitchen restaurant, and buy two whole chickens. The smell of that chicken: my word!And those of us who knew Fontana back then nodded with recognition as the memories flooded back. Food. The memories never leave you. Rosto specialises in “100% happy chicken, free to roam outdoors, grain fed, no routine antibiotics, no growth hormones”. Our loquacious waitress told us that the happy chickens are reared in Limpopo. They are spit roasted in front of a wood fire for our enjoyment.The restaurant aims to serve chicken...

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