Last week it suddenly occurred to me that, in the years I’ve been writing this column I have never reviewed a restaurant in the southern suburbs of Joburg. I’ve done a number of eateries in Soweto, of course, as well as others in different parts of the country — Cape Town, Durban, Polokwane — and some in Germany, Norway and Nigeria, the three countries I visited last year, just before the pandemic. But not one in the southern suburbs! Is it an oversight, or is it just that the south is not sexy? Joking.

To get started I decided on PH Network Café, recommended by a friend who lives in the south. I was pleasantly surprised at the vibrancy of the place. In fact, it is so busy that it takes a long time to get attended to...

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