Sunday was a beautiful day to go out in Joburg. Overcast but not cold and, when I looked out of my window onto the freeway, with not much traffic. My son Khanyani outfitted himself in his gaudy threads and "kicks" and we got into an Uber.

We were on a quest to give our full attention to Level Seven, a restaurant highly recommended by a friend whose culinary standards I respect. I get recommendations almost every week from people who know I write about food. They’re usually disappointing. In some cases I discover the person is related to the owner or is a friend of the chef. But I trusted my friend...

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