Battlefields, unlike beaches and the Big Five, are not straightforward. It’s not easy to notice the dead ground at Isandlwana unless you walk it, to appreciate how Boer trenches at Magersfontein foreshadowed events 14 years later in Europe, or agonise over Liverpool lads who were mown down by Mauser fire at the top of Spion Kop. It’s hard to even comprehend why all this blood should have been shed in the first place.

Nevertheless, for the tourist determined to get the best out of a battlefield, SA is a rewarding destination, and for those making a living from the battlefields there could be gold in them thar hills...

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