P is for … puny, precarious, patriotic, problematic, proud — and pinotage. And all of those words can be applied to South Africa’s home-grown grape. But there’s another P-word too: persistent.

In 1935, there were just four little seedlings left. That was the puny total of South African viticulturist and chemist Prof Izak Perold’s 1925 experiment in crossing pinot noir and hermitage, or cinsaut. (Get it? “Pinot” from pinot noir — plus the “tage” from hermitage.)..

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