Ryan Cole often walked past an empty building on the V&A Waterfront in Cape Town, wondering why no-one had snapped up the location in a place where there were many restaurants but few with such a remarkable view.

The venue was “hidden in plain sight”, says Cole. It had the luxury of expensive yachts on one side and the austerity of fishing trawlers and a fish factory on the other. It was in an unassuming spot, separated from the main madding crowd by a bascule bridge — one that swings open — that allows sea traffic into the V&A’s marina. He set up shop there and called his place, appropriately, Coy. Not that Cole, voted chef of the year in 2023, is shy about what he serves...

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